One of the great things about living near Patzcuaro is that the city of Morelia is only about an hour away! It has everything you could want in a modern city, shopping, medical, cultural events… But today I’m going for the walking tour of the historic centro!

Morelia is a romantic city, named after the war of independence hero Morelos, with its cobblestone streets, pink cathedral and historic aqueduct, there are many beautiful walks to take here. I have heard that it is the most Spanish looking of Mexico’s cities.

Morelia was voted one of the “Most Beautiful Cities in North America” by National Geographic in 2010. About 3.5 hours from Mexico City, it’s the capital of Michoacan and home to about 900 thousand people.

On my way in I passed the university with lots of students running around.  Morelia is home to one of the oldest universities in the Americas, the Universidad Michoacana de San Nicolás de Hidalgo, founded in 1540. 

I had found a public parking lot close by on google maps and I got lucky that it wasn’t full at 10am and pulled right in.

I met up with my English speaking guide, Rodrigo, and a group of others for the three hour walking tour of the historic centro in Morelia!

I won’t put you through the whole historical tour, but it was very good and Rodrigo has a lot of knowledge about Morelia and its history. It’s where he was born and raised.

I’m a sucker for colonial architecture and Morelia earned its UNESCO World Heritage status in 1991 for its exceptional preservation of Spanish colonial urban planning and architecture. So if you like colonial cities, Morelia is a treasure trove of beauty!

Morelia has many cultural events throughout the year including an international film festival in October that brings in people from around the world. It’s also known for its celebration of the Day of the Dead! There are food festivals, music festivals and the festival of lights! There are also many art and history museums here and most are free!

Right next to the glorious Cathedral is Plaza de Armas, the main square in Morelia and the heart of the city. All around Plaza de Armas are cafes and restaurants that come alive in the evenings with soft lighting, live music, and Morelianos enjoying the ambiance.

Many of the restaurants and cafés in the historic center have outdoor seating with charming views, often accompanied by traditional guitar or mariachi music.

The Jardin de las Rosas is one of the prettiest spots in Morelia, away from the hustle and bustle of the main street. With pretty flowers, fountains and much less traffic, it’s a great place to relax. There are several restaurants there with outdoor tables, with the biggest bougainvillea I’ve ever seen! Soft pink petals floating everywhere.

The name Conservatorio de las Rosas name may be misleading. This former convent is much more about music than it is flowers. While wandering through the ancient halls, you may hear tunes from the interior rooms as musicians practice. The Rose Conservatory is a music academy that was originally the Dominican Convent of Santa Catalina founded in 1595. Now it is a school that specializes in the arts, mainly in music. It is the home of the internationally known Young Art Festival and is home to the famous Choir of the Singing Children of Morelia.

The Cathedral was completed in 1774 after 84 years of construction. Its two bell towers are 230 feet high and can be seen from afar. Rodrigo explained how the Catholic diocese got more humble and restrained as time went on, and remodeled the inside to be more simple and pious. I thought it was one of the most beautiful churches I’ve seen. One of the highlights is the huge organ with 4,600 flutes, the second biggest organ in Mexico.

Many years ago The city’s planners prioritized access to clean water. An elaborate aqueduct system was built to supply water to the growing population. This impressive engineering feat was constructed in the 18th century and is an example of traditional Mexican masonry. With its 253 graceful arches, it is still one of Morelia’s most iconic structures.

Go for a Sunday Bike Ride in Morelia: Ciclovia Dominical

Every Sunday, starting at eight in the morning, Morelia shuts down a beautiful two-kilometer stretch of roadway that cuts right through the historic center of the city and becomes off limits for cars. Instead, rollerbladers, skateboarders, joggers, and dog walkers all join in the fun. Joining the Ciclovia is the thing to do in Morelia every Sunday morning. 

Santuario de Guadalupe

Also known as the Shrine of Our Lady Of Guadalupe, this chapel has been said to be the most beautiful building in all of Morelia, which is saying something for a city that is filled with beautiful buildings! Adorned with breathtaking floral decor and incredible paintings all over in warm tones, this church gives a regal yet cosy feel when you visit it. Every aspect of the church’s architecture, from the doors, and ceilings, up to the columns, are decorated with murals and flowers. It was interesting to compare the interior to the Cathedral and we could see what Rodrigo had said.

Wandering through the city’s alleys and side streets, you’ll discover colorful murals and vibrant street art that adds a touch of creativity to Morelia’s urban landscape.

The city is famous for its traditional sweets. Mercado de Dulces y Artesanias In the Sweets and Crafts Market of Morelia you can get a wide variety to suit your sweet tooth. 

Morelia is well known throughout Mexico for its local sugary confections. It’s a tradition in Morelia that dates back to the city’s colonial times when these candies were produced in the convents around town. From fruit-based candies to chewy caramels or nutty bon bons, you can pick up a wide assortment of local candies, many of which are unique exclusively to Morelia.

I could go on and on about the fine qualities of Morelia and what there is to see and do there. I’ve barely scratched the surface! But if you’re thinking of coming to this city I know there are other things on your mind.

Cost of Living

The cost of living here seems to be notably less than in popular cities like San Miguel de Allende or Puerto Vallarta. Furnished one-bedroom houses and apartments range from $400 to $900 USD per month. Eating out is very reasonable too.

Weather and Climate

Like where I’m living near Patzcuaro, the weather here is very mild, winter and summer, and Your electric bill won’t be much as you’ll rarely need heat or air conditioning. Morelia’s 6,300-foot elevation keeps the climate spring-like year-round.

Expat Groups?

There is a small expat group here in the city I haven’t met yet, but the lack of a lot of English speaking tourists and residents here is an asset that many of us like! The immigrants from the US and Canada are spread out into the city, there is no “expat enclave”. I don’t think.

Crime and Safety

The main concern many people have, once they see what a nice city this is, is the issue of safety and crime here. The state of Michoacan is on the U.S. State Department’s “do not travel list”. There have been scattered incidences of violence and crime mostly down closer to the coast.

The city of Morelia does have crime, both violent and property crime. There is a significant portion of the population living in poverty here. I have been living in Michoacan for about 5 months now, and though I’ve had no problems, that doesn’t mean there are no risks.

The fact is there have been 16 murders in Morelia just so far in January!  I’m not that good at math so I asked AI what are the probabilities of becoming a victim here if there are about 1 million people here and there are 16 murders per month.

If there are 16 murders per month, the total number of murders in a year would be:

16 murders/month×12 months=192 murders/year.16murders/month×12months=192murders/year.

Probability of being a victim in a year

1. Total population: 1,000,000
2. Probability of being a victim in a year:Probability=Number of murders in a yearPopulation=1921,000,000=0.000192Probability=PopulationNumber of murders in a year​=1,000,000192​=0.000192

So, the probability of a person being a victim of murder in a year is 0.0192%, or about 1 in 5,208.

Odds of being a victim in a year

To calculate the odds:

1. Probability of not being a victim:
   1−Probability of being a victim=1−0.000192=0.9998081−Probability of being a victim=1−0.000192=0.999808
2. Odds of being a victim:
   Odds=Probability of being a victimProbability of not being a victim=0.0001920.999808≈1:5,207.Odds=Probability of not being a victimProbability of being a victim​=0.9998080.000192​≈1:5,207.

Final Answer:

The probability of being a victim of murder in a year is about 1 in 5,208, and the odds are approximately 1 : 5,207.

Of course there probably won’t be 16 killings per month, and I’d say if you’re not hanging around with bad people or doing foolish things, your chances are much, much better.

But many people don’t want to even be around such violence and crime, and I don’t know if there is a reason to hope the future improves.

There are millions of people in Michoacan trying to live their lives with their families and friends. There are millions of people who’ve never had a problem with violent crime. But foreign tourists or new residents considering visiting Mexico need to understand the risks arisings from security problems and organized crime activity in Michoacán. 

I’m sorry to be so blunt with the numbers, and as you can see, safety is relative between areas in Mexico. 

While many foreigners in Mexico feel safe in their daily lives, as I do, it’s important to recognize that crime often impacts Mexican citizens more directly, with some families and communities facing significant challenges. Relying solely on feelings can lead to overlooking genuine risks, particularly in places where crime statistics tell a different story. 

Ultimately, how you assess the risks depends on your comfort level and awareness. Staying informed and taking precautions can go a long way in helping you balance enjoying life here with making thoughtful decisions.

While Morelia is a stunning city rich in culture, history, and romance, it’s important to acknowledge that, like some other places in Mexico, it faces challenges with safety and crime. The city has areas that are deeply peaceful and welcoming, but it also has regions where caution is advised. Crime statistics, such as the homicide rate, highlight the need to stay informed and vigilant, especially if you’re considering living or traveling here.

That being said, many expats and locals alike find Morelia to be a wonderful place to live, particularly when they take the time to learn about the city, connect with the community, and make thoughtful decisions about where to live and when to go out. By staying informed, respecting local advice, and taking precautions, you can minimize risks and enjoy all the beauty and vibrancy Morelia has to offer.

One of the most remarkable things about living in Mexico is the warmth and generosity of its people.  Most Mexicans extend a kind and genuine welcome to both visitors and new residents, often going out of their way to share their culture and traditions.

In fact, as we wrapped up our tour, a woman walking by approached our group. At first, I thought Rodrigo knew her, but it turned out she didn’t know any of us. She’d overheard him sharing stories about the place and realized we were visitors. With a warm smile, she simply wanted to say, ‘You’re welcome here, and thank you for coming despite the noticias.’ 

Moments like this highlight the spirit of community and resilience that remains a constant in Mexico, even as governments and policies fluctuate. It’s a reminder of the kindness that thrives here, even amid challenges.

I like living outside cities and going in now and then to visit them. But if I was a city dweller I’d find Morelia very hard to resist!